7261

This work is dedicated to the study of the use, consumption and recovery of the Andalusian headdress in the Río de la Plata, understanding it as a product of Latin-Arabic intercultural design, as a cultural continuation of Hispanic speaking and Arabic living, which is constituted as a differentiatin...

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Autor principal: Redondo, María de los Ángeles
Otros Autores: Noufouri, Hamurabi
Formato: Tesis doctoral acceptedVersion
Lenguaje:Español
Publicado: Facultad de Arquitectura, Diseño y Urbanismo 2022
Materias:
Acceso en línea:http://repositoriouba.sisbi.uba.ar/gsdl/cgi-bin/library.cgi?a=d&c=aaqtesis&cl=CL1&d=HWA_7261
https://repositoriouba.sisbi.uba.ar/gsdl/collect/aaqtesis/index/assoc/HWA_7261.dir/7261.PDF
Aporte de:
id I28-R145-HWA_7261
record_format dspace
institution Universidad de Buenos Aires
institution_str I-28
repository_str R-145
collection Repositorio Digital de la Universidad de Buenos Aires (UBA)
language Español
orig_language_str_mv spa
topic Tocado andalusí
Río de la Plata
Habitar indumentario
Arabismos
Orientalismo
Andalusian headdress
Río de la Plata
Inhabit clothing
Arabisms
Orientalism
Investigación
Indumentaria
Historia
Accesorios
Influencias
Cultura
Tocados
Islam
spellingShingle Tocado andalusí
Río de la Plata
Habitar indumentario
Arabismos
Orientalismo
Andalusian headdress
Río de la Plata
Inhabit clothing
Arabisms
Orientalism
Investigación
Indumentaria
Historia
Accesorios
Influencias
Cultura
Tocados
Islam
Redondo, María de los Ángeles
7261
topic_facet Tocado andalusí
Río de la Plata
Habitar indumentario
Arabismos
Orientalismo
Andalusian headdress
Río de la Plata
Inhabit clothing
Arabisms
Orientalism
Investigación
Indumentaria
Historia
Accesorios
Influencias
Cultura
Tocados
Islam
description This work is dedicated to the study of the use, consumption and recovery of the Andalusian headdress in the Río de la Plata, understanding it as a product of Latin-Arabic intercultural design, as a cultural continuation of Hispanic speaking and Arabic living, which is constituted as a differentiating component of the local female costume. Despite having an unquestionable validity as a distinctive symbol of certain sectors of Argentine society -after having been retaken and resinified during the 20th and 21st centuries- the study of this clothing has the most absolute indifference to part of the costume historians. In this sense, our exploratory inquiries about the history of the local costume reveal an important thematic vacancy. Scholarly void that contrasts with the abundance of period documents that testify about its consumption and recovery. Disproportion that deserves a work that explores possible answers to the questions that this scenario raises, systematizing at the same time, the specific information available on the subject, especially taking into account the high degree of complexity and dispersion that it presents. Likewise, as the meaning assigned by the Dictionary of the Royal Spanish Academy to the Andalusian term does not allow its application as an artistic category detached from the "Arabic" or "Islamic", we pose as a question and starting premise of our work if it is possible to have a perception determined on a culture and a different one of the design products attributed to it. If we take into account that, as Eco (1968) points out, the attribution of meanings that govern the design operation will vary according to the reading codes used, we then have that the local use of "Andalusian" clothing will be conditioned by the variation of the ways of perceiving or interpreting the "Arabic" or "Islamic" that the perceptions and discourses that refer to it has. By extension, it is possible to suspect that this consumption and recovery as well as its identification or not, were conditioned by the variation in the ways of perceiving or interpreting the "Andalusian" by the portraits and stories that refer to it. Therefore, considering the prevailing historiographic silence, it is possible to infer the presence of some type of ideological incidence around the interpretation of the consumption and recovery of the Andalusian headdress in the Río de la Plata. Thus, we assume as a hypothesis that what is proposed as the starting premise of our work is not possible because it does not seem possible to have a perception about Andalusian design objects independent of those about Arabs and Islam, as well as having a representation of both independent of Orientalism (Said, 1978). Much less presume that this does not affect the consumption, recovery, perception and interpretation of clothing identifiable as "Andalusian".
author2 Noufouri, Hamurabi
author_facet Noufouri, Hamurabi
Redondo, María de los Ángeles
format Tesis doctoral
Tesis doctoral
acceptedVersion
author Redondo, María de los Ángeles
author_sort Redondo, María de los Ángeles
title 7261
title_short 7261
title_full 7261
title_fullStr 7261
title_full_unstemmed 7261
title_sort 7261
publisher Facultad de Arquitectura, Diseño y Urbanismo
publishDate 2022
url http://repositoriouba.sisbi.uba.ar/gsdl/cgi-bin/library.cgi?a=d&c=aaqtesis&cl=CL1&d=HWA_7261
https://repositoriouba.sisbi.uba.ar/gsdl/collect/aaqtesis/index/assoc/HWA_7261.dir/7261.PDF
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spelling I28-R145-HWA_72612024-08-16 7261 This work is dedicated to the study of the use, consumption and recovery of the Andalusian headdress in the Río de la Plata, understanding it as a product of Latin-Arabic intercultural design, as a cultural continuation of Hispanic speaking and Arabic living, which is constituted as a differentiating component of the local female costume. Despite having an unquestionable validity as a distinctive symbol of certain sectors of Argentine society -after having been retaken and resinified during the 20th and 21st centuries- the study of this clothing has the most absolute indifference to part of the costume historians. In this sense, our exploratory inquiries about the history of the local costume reveal an important thematic vacancy. Scholarly void that contrasts with the abundance of period documents that testify about its consumption and recovery. Disproportion that deserves a work that explores possible answers to the questions that this scenario raises, systematizing at the same time, the specific information available on the subject, especially taking into account the high degree of complexity and dispersion that it presents. Likewise, as the meaning assigned by the Dictionary of the Royal Spanish Academy to the Andalusian term does not allow its application as an artistic category detached from the "Arabic" or "Islamic", we pose as a question and starting premise of our work if it is possible to have a perception determined on a culture and a different one of the design products attributed to it. If we take into account that, as Eco (1968) points out, the attribution of meanings that govern the design operation will vary according to the reading codes used, we then have that the local use of "Andalusian" clothing will be conditioned by the variation of the ways of perceiving or interpreting the "Arabic" or "Islamic" that the perceptions and discourses that refer to it has. By extension, it is possible to suspect that this consumption and recovery as well as its identification or not, were conditioned by the variation in the ways of perceiving or interpreting the "Andalusian" by the portraits and stories that refer to it. Therefore, considering the prevailing historiographic silence, it is possible to infer the presence of some type of ideological incidence around the interpretation of the consumption and recovery of the Andalusian headdress in the Río de la Plata. Thus, we assume as a hypothesis that what is proposed as the starting premise of our work is not possible because it does not seem possible to have a perception about Andalusian design objects independent of those about Arabs and Islam, as well as having a representation of both independent of Orientalism (Said, 1978). Much less presume that this does not affect the consumption, recovery, perception and interpretation of clothing identifiable as "Andalusian". Fil: Redondo, María de los Ángeles. Universidad de Buenos Aires. Facultad de Arquitectura, Diseño y Urbanismo. Buenos Aires, Argentina Facultad de Arquitectura, Diseño y Urbanismo Noufouri, Hamurabi Argentina España Andalucia Redondo, María de los Ángeles 2022-09-09 Este trabajo busca dar cuenta del uso, consumo y recuperación rioplatense del tocado andalusí, entendiendo a dicho indumento como un producto de diseño intercultural latino-arábigo, en tanto continuación cultural del hablar hispánico y el habitar arábigo en el Rio de la Plata, que logra constituirse como un componente diferenciador del traje femenino local. A pesar de poseer una incuestionable vigencia como símbolo distintivo de ciertos sectores de la sociedad argentina -tras haber sido retomado y resinificado durante el siglo XX y XXI- el estudio de este indumento continúa gozando, al día de hoy, de la más absoluta indiferencia por parte de los historiadores del traje. En este sentido, cabe destacar que nuestras indagaciones exploratorias sobre la historia del traje en general y rioplatense en particular, revelan una importante vacancia temática. Vacío erudito que contrasta con la abundancia de documentos de época que dan testimonio acerca de su consumo y recuperación rioplatense. Desproporción que amerita, cuanto menos, dedicar un trabajo que busque ensayar posibles respuestas a los interrogantes que este escenario plantea, sistematizando al mismo tiempo, la información específica disponible sobre el tema habida cuenta del alto grado de complejidad y dispersión que ésta presenta. Asimismo, dado que el significado asignado por el Diccionario de la Real Academia Española al término andalusí no permite su aplicación como categoría artística desvinculada de lo "arábigo" o "islámico", planteamos como interrogante y premisa de partida de nuestro trabajo si es posible tener una percepción determinada sobre una cultura y otra diferente de los productos de diseño que se le atribuyen. Si tenemos en cuenta que, como señala Eco (1968), la atribución de significados que rigen la operación de diseño variará según los códigos de lectura empleados, tenemos que el uso local de indumentos "andalusíes" estará condicionado u orientado por la variación de los modos de percibir o de interpretar lo "arábigo" o "islámico" por parte de las percepciones y discursos que a él se refieren. Por extensión cabe sospechar, que dicho consumo y recuperación así como su identificación o no como tal, fueran o fuesen condicionados por la variación en los modos de percibir o de interpretar lo andalusí por parte de los retratos y relatos que a él se refieren u omiten. Por lo que, considerando el silencio historiográfico reinante, no sería desatinado inferir la presencia de algún tipo de incidencia ideológica en torno a la interpretación del consumo y recuperación rioplatense del tocado andalusí. En consecuencia, asumimos como hipótesis que lo planteado como premisa de partida de nuestro trabajo no es posible pues no parece posible tener una percepción sobre los objetos de diseño andalusíes independiente de las que se tenga sobre los árabes y el Islam, así como tampoco el de tener una representación sobre ambos independiente del Orientalismo (Said, 1978). Mucho menos suponer que ello no incida en el consumo, recuperación, percepción e interpretación de los indumentos identificables como "andalusíes". application/pdf Martín Muñoz, Gema Martínez Nespral, Fernando Puerta Vilchez, José Miguel Tocado andalusí Río de la Plata Habitar indumentario Arabismos Orientalismo Andalusian headdress Río de la Plata Inhabit clothing Arabisms Orientalism spa Universidad de Buenos Aires. Facultad de Arquitectura, Diseño y Urbanismo info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/2.5/ar/ Investigación Indumentaria Historia Accesorios Influencias Cultura Tocados Islam Relatos y retratos sobre el tocado andalusí en el Río de la Plata : entre el hablar hispánico y el habitar indumentario arábigo Stories and portraits about the andalusian headdress in the Río de la Plata : between hispanic speaking and inhabiting arabic clothing info:eu-repo/semantics/doctoralThesis info:ar-repo/semantics/tesis doctoral info:eu-repo/semantics/acceptedVersion http://repositoriouba.sisbi.uba.ar/gsdl/cgi-bin/library.cgi?a=d&c=aaqtesis&cl=CL1&d=HWA_7261 https://repositoriouba.sisbi.uba.ar/gsdl/collect/aaqtesis/index/assoc/HWA_7261.dir/7261.PDF