The “ethnic thing” is fashionable. Performativity, criticism and agency around the Indoamerican discourse in Vogue (2000-2017)
This article presents a set of reflections about the representation assigned to the American Indian in the collections and brands of the high fashion present in the fashion weeks from the Vogue web portal. For this, the visual and written contents were analyzed in a double dimension: aesthetic and s...
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| Formato: | Artículo publishedVersion Artículos evaluados por pares |
| Lenguaje: | Español |
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Instituto de Ciencias Antropológicas, Facultad de Filosofía y Letras, UBA
2018
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| Acceso en línea: | https://revistascientificas.filo.uba.ar/index.php/runa/article/view/4209 https://repositoriouba.sisbi.uba.ar/gsdl/cgi-bin/library.cgi?a=d&c=runa&d=4209_oai |
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I28-R145-4209_oai2025-11-17 Mora Silva, Julimar 2018-12-28 This article presents a set of reflections about the representation assigned to the American Indian in the collections and brands of the high fashion present in the fashion weeks from the Vogue web portal. For this, the visual and written contents were analyzed in a double dimension: aesthetic and symbolic, evidencing the transmission of old in “new” forms of expression. Likewise, cases where these discourses and performances revived the claim of ethnic groups that criticized speeches and appropriations of styles in the performances about them are discussed. The analysis of the contents gave an account of the development of contradictions at all levels, from the aesthetic associated with clothing and body performance, to the political one anchored to the disputes over the right to property and identity associated with certain markers of ethnicity. Este artículo presenta un conjunto de reflexiones acerca de la representación asignada a lo indoamericano en las colecciones y marcas de la alta moda presentadas en las fashion weeks a partir del portal web de Vogue. Para ello, se analizaron los contenidos visuales y escritos en una doble dimensión: estética y simbólica, para evidenciar la transmisión de antiguas significaciones en “nuevas” formas de expresión. Asimismo, se discuten casos en los que estos discursos y performatividades avivaron el reclamo de grupos étnicos que criticaron discursos y apropiaciones de estilos en las performances sobre ellos referidos. El análisis de los contenidos dio cuenta de la gestación de contradicciones a todos los niveles, desde el estético asociado a la indumentaria y a la performance corporal, hasta el político, anclado a las disputas por el derecho a la propiedad e identidad asociada ciertos marcadores de etnicidad. Este artigo apresenta um conjunto de reflexões sobre a representação atribuída ao índio americano nas coleções e marcas da alta moda apresentadas nas fashion weeks do portal da Vogue. Para tanto, os conteúdos visuais e escritos foram analisados em dupla dimensão: estética e simbólica, evidenciando a transmissão de antigos significados em “novas” formas de expressão. Da mesma forma, casos em que esses discursos e performatividades reavivaram a reivindicação de grupos étnicos que criticaram discursos e apropriações de estilos nas performances sobre eles são discutidos. A análise dos conteúdos deu conta do desenvolvimento de contradições em todos os níveis, desde a estética associada ao vestuário e à performance corporal, até a política ancorada nas disputas pelo direito à propriedade e identidade associados a certos marcadores de etnia. application/pdf https://revistascientificas.filo.uba.ar/index.php/runa/article/view/4209 10.34096/runa.v39i2.4209 spa Instituto de Ciencias Antropológicas, Facultad de Filosofía y Letras, UBA https://revistascientificas.filo.uba.ar/index.php/runa/article/view/4209/4964 https://revistascientificas.filo.uba.ar/index.php/runa/article/view/4209/12984 RUNA, archivo para las ciencias del hombre; Vol. 39 No. 2 (2018) RUNA, archivo para las ciencias del hombre; Vol. 39 Núm. 2 (2018) RUNA, archivo para las ciencias del hombre; v. 39 n. 2 (2018) 1851-9628 0325-1217 Fashion Ethnic Performativity Agency Criticism Moda Étnica Performatividades Agência Crítica Moda Étnico Performatividad Agencia Crítica The “ethnic thing” is fashionable. Performativity, criticism and agency around the Indoamerican discourse in Vogue (2000-2017) La “cosa étnica”está de moda Performatividad, crítica y agencia en torno al discurso indoamericano en Vogue (2000-2017) “Coisa étnica” está na moda. Perfomatividade, crítica e agência em torno do discurso indo-americano na Vogue (2000-2017) info:eu-repo/semantics/article info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion Artículos evaluados por pares https://repositoriouba.sisbi.uba.ar/gsdl/cgi-bin/library.cgi?a=d&c=runa&d=4209_oai |
| institution |
Universidad de Buenos Aires |
| institution_str |
I-28 |
| repository_str |
R-145 |
| collection |
Repositorio Digital de la Universidad de Buenos Aires (UBA) |
| language |
Español |
| orig_language_str_mv |
spa |
| topic |
Fashion Ethnic Performativity Agency Criticism Moda Étnica Performatividades Agência Crítica Moda Étnico Performatividad Agencia Crítica |
| spellingShingle |
Fashion Ethnic Performativity Agency Criticism Moda Étnica Performatividades Agência Crítica Moda Étnico Performatividad Agencia Crítica Mora Silva, Julimar The “ethnic thing” is fashionable. Performativity, criticism and agency around the Indoamerican discourse in Vogue (2000-2017) |
| topic_facet |
Fashion Ethnic Performativity Agency Criticism Moda Étnica Performatividades Agência Crítica Moda Étnico Performatividad Agencia Crítica |
| description |
This article presents a set of reflections about the representation assigned to the American Indian in the collections and brands of the high fashion present in the fashion weeks from the Vogue web portal. For this, the visual and written contents were analyzed in a double dimension: aesthetic and symbolic, evidencing the transmission of old in “new” forms of expression. Likewise, cases where these discourses and performances revived the claim of ethnic groups that criticized speeches and appropriations of styles in the performances about them are discussed. The analysis of the contents gave an account of the development of contradictions at all levels, from the aesthetic associated with clothing and body performance, to the political one anchored to the disputes over the right to property and identity associated with certain markers of ethnicity. |
| format |
Artículo publishedVersion Artículos evaluados por pares |
| author |
Mora Silva, Julimar |
| author_facet |
Mora Silva, Julimar |
| author_sort |
Mora Silva, Julimar |
| title |
The “ethnic thing” is fashionable. Performativity, criticism and agency around the Indoamerican discourse in Vogue (2000-2017) |
| title_short |
The “ethnic thing” is fashionable. Performativity, criticism and agency around the Indoamerican discourse in Vogue (2000-2017) |
| title_full |
The “ethnic thing” is fashionable. Performativity, criticism and agency around the Indoamerican discourse in Vogue (2000-2017) |
| title_fullStr |
The “ethnic thing” is fashionable. Performativity, criticism and agency around the Indoamerican discourse in Vogue (2000-2017) |
| title_full_unstemmed |
The “ethnic thing” is fashionable. Performativity, criticism and agency around the Indoamerican discourse in Vogue (2000-2017) |
| title_sort |
“ethnic thing” is fashionable. performativity, criticism and agency around the indoamerican discourse in vogue (2000-2017) |
| publisher |
Instituto de Ciencias Antropológicas, Facultad de Filosofía y Letras, UBA |
| publishDate |
2018 |
| url |
https://revistascientificas.filo.uba.ar/index.php/runa/article/view/4209 https://repositoriouba.sisbi.uba.ar/gsdl/cgi-bin/library.cgi?a=d&c=runa&d=4209_oai |
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