Sublimation and black melancholy: the creation of Yves Saint-Laurent

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint Laurent, known as Yves Saint Laurent, is a twentieth-century haute-couture creator who revolutionized the lines and codes of fashion and genre. Its creation marks a unique imprint and a timeless style. Through this study, we seek to identify, on the one hand, the intim...

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Autor principal: Jodeau-Belle, Laetitia
Formato: Artículo revista
Lenguaje:Español
Publicado: Centro de Investigaciones y Estudios sobre Cultura y Sociedad 2022
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Acceso en línea:https://revistas.unc.edu.ar/index.php/eticaycine/article/view/39643
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record_format ojs
institution Universidad Nacional de Córdoba
institution_str I-10
repository_str R-10
container_title_str Revistas de la UNC
language Español
format Artículo revista
topic Sublimation
Creation
Melancholia
Psychosis
Supplementation
Sublimación
Creación
Melancolía
Psicosis
Suplencia
Sublimation
Création
Mélancolie
Psychose
Suppléance
spellingShingle Sublimation
Creation
Melancholia
Psychosis
Supplementation
Sublimación
Creación
Melancolía
Psicosis
Suplencia
Sublimation
Création
Mélancolie
Psychose
Suppléance
Jodeau-Belle, Laetitia
Sublimation and black melancholy: the creation of Yves Saint-Laurent
topic_facet Sublimation
Creation
Melancholia
Psychosis
Supplementation
Sublimación
Creación
Melancolía
Psicosis
Suplencia
Sublimation
Création
Mélancolie
Psychose
Suppléance
author Jodeau-Belle, Laetitia
author_facet Jodeau-Belle, Laetitia
author_sort Jodeau-Belle, Laetitia
title Sublimation and black melancholy: the creation of Yves Saint-Laurent
title_short Sublimation and black melancholy: the creation of Yves Saint-Laurent
title_full Sublimation and black melancholy: the creation of Yves Saint-Laurent
title_fullStr Sublimation and black melancholy: the creation of Yves Saint-Laurent
title_full_unstemmed Sublimation and black melancholy: the creation of Yves Saint-Laurent
title_sort sublimation and black melancholy: the creation of yves saint-laurent
description Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint Laurent, known as Yves Saint Laurent, is a twentieth-century haute-couture creator who revolutionized the lines and codes of fashion and genre. Its creation marks a unique imprint and a timeless style. Through this study, we seek to identify, on the one hand, the intimate and subjective springs of creation for Yves Saint Laurent. We rely, to demonstrate the logic at work, on many documents but also on the words of Yves Saint Laurent himself concerning his know-how and his creative approach. This leads us, on the other hand, to situate the functions that take for him the sublimatory treatment of the pulsion, and this in its articulation with melancholia. Our hypothesis, in fact, is that the sublimatory montage, as stated from childhood by the artist of «machinery», enabled him to supplement the forclusion of symbolic and to counteract, to some extent, the urge of death. He was thus able to call himself «the creator of all women», which is the appointment of an exceptional position. For him, the beauty is an essential bulwark to the horror of no thingness. The design of a dress is a knot between aesthetics, enjoyment and fiction that makes the object rise on the public stage. This allows the artis to produce a body. His sewing, as well as his bond with his lover partner, have kept a desire to create a unique style for women and to enroll them in modernity.
publisher Centro de Investigaciones y Estudios sobre Cultura y Sociedad
publishDate 2022
url https://revistas.unc.edu.ar/index.php/eticaycine/article/view/39643
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first_indexed 2023-02-28T06:10:36Z
last_indexed 2023-02-28T06:10:36Z
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spelling I10-R10-article-396432022-12-07T21:29:53Z Sublimation and black melancholy: the creation of Yves Saint-Laurent Sublimation et mélancolie noire : la création d’Yves Saint-Laurent Sublimation et mélancolie noire : la création d’Yves Saint-Laurent Jodeau-Belle, Laetitia Sublimation Creation Melancholia Psychosis Supplementation Sublimación Creación Melancolía Psicosis Suplencia Sublimation Création Mélancolie Psychose Suppléance Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint Laurent, known as Yves Saint Laurent, is a twentieth-century haute-couture creator who revolutionized the lines and codes of fashion and genre. Its creation marks a unique imprint and a timeless style. Through this study, we seek to identify, on the one hand, the intimate and subjective springs of creation for Yves Saint Laurent. We rely, to demonstrate the logic at work, on many documents but also on the words of Yves Saint Laurent himself concerning his know-how and his creative approach. This leads us, on the other hand, to situate the functions that take for him the sublimatory treatment of the pulsion, and this in its articulation with melancholia. Our hypothesis, in fact, is that the sublimatory montage, as stated from childhood by the artist of «machinery», enabled him to supplement the forclusion of symbolic and to counteract, to some extent, the urge of death. He was thus able to call himself «the creator of all women», which is the appointment of an exceptional position. For him, the beauty is an essential bulwark to the horror of no thingness. The design of a dress is a knot between aesthetics, enjoyment and fiction that makes the object rise on the public stage. This allows the artis to produce a body. His sewing, as well as his bond with his lover partner, have kept a desire to create a unique style for women and to enroll them in modernity. Yves Henri Donat Mathieu- Saint Laurent, conocido como Yves Saint Laurent, es un creador de alta costura del siglo XX que revolucionó las líneas y los códigos de la moda y el género. Su creación marca una impronta única y un estilo atemporal. A través de este escrito se busca identificar, por un lado, cuales son los resortes íntimos y subjetivos de la creación para Yves Saint Laurent. Para demostrar la lógica del trabajo, nos apoyamos en numerosos documentos, así como también en las palabras del mismo Yves Saint Laurent sobre su hacer y su enfoque creativo, lo que nos lleva a situar las funciones que asume para él el tratamiento sublimatorio de la pulsión en articulación con la melancolía. Nuestra hipótesis, en efecto, es que el montaje sublimatorio, tal como lo planteó desde niño el artista de la “maquinaria”, le permitió suplir la forclusión de lo simbólico y a contrarrestar, en cierta medida, la urgencia de la muerte. Así pudo llamarse a si mismo “el creador de todas las mujeres”, que es la nominación de un cargo excepcional. Lo bello constituye para él un baluarte esencial ante el horror de la nada. El diseño de un vestido opera cada vez un nudo entre la estética, el goce y la ficción que hace que el objeto se eleve al escenario público. Esto permite al artista producir un cuerpo. Su costura, así como el vínculo con la pareja romántica, han mantenido el deseo de crear un estilo único para la mujer e inscribirla en la modernidad. Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, dit Yves Saint Laurent, est un créateur de haute-couture du vingtième siècle qui révolutionna les lignes et les codes de la mode et du genre. Sa création marque une empreinte unique et un style intemporel. A travers cette étude, nous cherchons à dégager, d’une part, quels sont les ressorts intimes et subjectifs de la création pour Yves Saint Laurent. Nous nous appuyons, pour en démontrer la logique à l’œuvre, sur de nombreux documents mais également sur les propos d’Yves Saint Laurent lui-même concernant son savoir-faire et sa démarche créative. Ce qui nous amène ainsi, d’autre part, à situer les fonctions que prennent pour lui le traitement sublimatoire de la pulsion, et ce dans son articulation avec la mélancolie. Notre hypothèse, en effet, est de soutenir que le montage sublimatoire, énoncé dès l’enfance par l’artiste de « machinerie », lui a permis de suppléer à la forclusion du symbolique et de contrer, dans une certaine mesure, la pulsion de mort. Il a ainsi pu se nommer « le créateur de toutes les femmes », qui est la nomination d’une position d’exception. Le beau constitue pour lui un rempart essentiel à l’horreur du néant. La conception d’une robe opère à chaque fois un nouage entre l’esthétisme, la jouissance et la fiction qui réalise une montée de l’objet sur la scène publique. Cela permet à l’artiste de produire un corps. Sa couture, ainsi que son lien au partenaire amoureux, ont permis de maintenir un désir de créer un style unique pour les femmes et de les inscrire dans la modernité. Centro de Investigaciones y Estudios sobre Cultura y Sociedad 2022-12-07 info:eu-repo/semantics/article info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion application/pdf https://revistas.unc.edu.ar/index.php/eticaycine/article/view/39643 Ética y Cine Journal; Vol. 12 Núm. 3 (2022): El final y después. Duelos y melancolías; 35-43 2250-5415 2250-5660 10.31056/2250.5415.v12.n3 spa https://revistas.unc.edu.ar/index.php/eticaycine/article/view/39643/39681 Derechos de autor 2022 Ética y Cine Journal https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/